travel in Shaoxing :the hometown of China's greatest author Lu Xun

绍兴鲁镇游玩攻略

鲁镇的黑夜与白天

Luzhen's night and day

迟子建

Chi Zijian

名人的故居,最辛劳的要数门槛了。它要承载参观者或轻或重的步履,这脚印当然比不得落叶抚过来得温存,更比不得风儿漫过来得清爽。又何况,这老门槛迎来的并不是它旧日的主人,它听到的大抵是游人的感慨和照相机的快门跳动的“咔嚓”声。稍好一些的,也无非是怀着凭吊情怀的人发出的几声叹息。我想这门槛在寂静的深夜,也许会为自己身上无端地沾染了陌生人脚上的尘土而感到难过,它也许会捂着被践踏得伤痕累累的脸,对着屋顶的残瓦或者天井中的老树哭泣。

Celebrity 's former residence, the most difficult thing is to number the threshold. It should carry visitors or light or heavy walking, this footprint, of course, not to touch the leaves were gentle, more than not diffuse over the fresh wind. Moreover, this old threshold is not ushered in its old master, it is probably to hear the feelings of visitors and the camera's shutter beating the "click" sound. Slightly better, but also is nothing more than the sentimental feelings with the issue of several sighs. I think this threshold in the silence of the night, may be unwittingly infected with dust on the feet of strangers feel sorry, it may be clutching his face was trampled scarred, facing the roof tile or patio The old tree weeps.

我是迈过鲁迅故居的门槛的,我不敢踩它,怕那像历史卷轴一样的门槛会被踏碎。天色本来就陰沉,再加上人多嘈杂,已经消去了我对这老屋的兴趣。只记得它很大,门是一重接着一重的,所有的房间都陈设着古旧的家具和器皿,它们就像老人们历经沧桑的眼睛一样,沉静而又略嫌冷淡地望着我们。屋子没有大窗口,那栗色的窗子又一律是木格的。木格很细碎,就仿佛是横在窗上的一把把剪刀一样,把进屋的陽光给凭空剪得零落而黯淡,所以几乎很难看到一间陽光充足的屋子。当年的“迅哥”流连在这样的深宅大院里,住在这样永远暮气沉沉的房子里,他对外部世界的关注就会更为迫切了吧。而由这寂静和昏暗生发出的幻想,也会像河里游荡的小鱼一样活跃。

I was crossing the threshold of the former residence of Lu Xun, I can not step on it, for fear that the same as the history of the scrolls will be trampled the threshold. The sky is already gloomy, coupled with a lot of people noisy, has eliminated my interest in this old house. Just remember it is great, the door is a heavy then heavy, and all the rooms are furnished with old furniture and utensils, they are like the old people through the vicissitudes of the eyes, quiet and slightly coldly looking at us. There was no large window in the room, and the chestnut windows were all wooden. Wood is very small pieces, as if the cross on the window of a pair of scissors, the sun into the room to cut out of thin air and bleak, it is almost hard to see a sunny room. Then "fast brother" hang around in such a large courtyard, to live in such an eternal house forever, his attention to the outside world will be more urgent it. The illusion of silence and faintness is as active as the wandering fish in the river.

这是绍兴,而绍兴在我的心目中就是鲁镇。在听过了一场让人失望的“社戏”后,我与几位朋友寻到了一处大排档,已是子夜时分了。没有星星,也没有月亮,大排档正在高潮上。那排档是南北向的一条长巷,有些歪斜,而正是这歪斜,使它显出了随意、世俗和浪漫的气息。

This is Shaoxing, and Shaoxing in my mind is Lu Zhen. After hearing a disappointing "community drama", I and a few friends to find a food stalls, is midnight. No stars, no moon, the food stalls are on the high tide. That gear is a long alley from north to south, some skew, but it is skewed, it shows a casual, secular and romantic atmosphere.

巷子里湿漉漉的,这当然不是雨的滋润,而是摊主洗菜时泼出的水。摊位一座连着一座,清一色的塑料棚顶,每个棚子大约放四五张圆桌,每张桌都能容七八个人。摊前的煤火通红通红的,炒菜的声音和着摊主招徕客人的声音,让人觉得亲切和温暖。我们要了炸臭豆腐干、咸蛋黄炒南瓜丝、爆炒黄泥螺、辣椒鳝丝、盐水煮茴香豆等菜,叫了一壶酒。酒不用说,一定就是孔乙己和阿Q都喝过的黄酒。酒被温过,未放城市里时尚喝法中要加的话梅、姜丝、冰糖等调味品,因而纯正醇厚。我们先前还比较文雅的吃酒谈天,后来酒喝得人情绪飞扬,几个人就开行酒令,又笑又叫着,好不快活。

Alley is in the wet, this is certainly not the rain of moisture, but stall vegetables spilled water. Stalls attached to one, all-plastic roof, each shed about four or five round tables, each table can accommodate seven or eight individuals. Pre-coal red red, the voice of cooking and the stall to attract the voice of the guests, people feel warm and warm. We want a fried tofu, salted egg yolk fried pumpkin wire, stir-fried yellow snail, pepper eel wire, salt water boiled anise beans and other dishes, called a pot of wine. Wine Needless to say, must be Kong Yiji and Ah Q have been drinking rice wine. Wine has been warm, did not put the city to drink in the fashion law to increase the plum, ginger, rock sugar and other condiments, so pure mellow. We have also compared the elegant wine chat, and later drink was emotional flying, a few people on the line to make wine, laugh and cried, so happy.

这种时刻,我心中鲁镇的影子一闪一闪地呈现了,我嗅到了一股旧时中国生活的气息。我仿佛看到了孔乙己穿着长衫站着喝酒的情形,他用尖细的手指在柜台上排出一文一文的铜钱;我还看到了吕纬甫在酒楼上讲述两朵剪绒花故事时怅惘的神情。我甚至想,如果不远处的护城河下泊着一条船,我们登得船上,在夜色中划桨而行,一定能够看到真正的社戏,喝到戏台下卖的豆浆。

At this moment, the shadow of my heart Luzhen comes out a flash to show, I smell the smell of an old Chinese life. I seem to see Kong Yiji wearing a gown standing drinking, he with a pointed finger on the counter to discharge a text of the coins; I also saw Lvwei Fu in the restaurant about two velvet flowers when the story of wistful look. I even think that if not far from the moat parked under a boat, we boarded the board, in the night in the rowing row, will be able to see the real social drama, drink under the stage to sell milk.

如果碰到一个老旦坐在椅子上咿咿呀呀地唱个不休,我也一样会烦得撑船就走。如果偷不成别家的豆子在船上煮着吃,就姑且偷一缕月光来当发带,束着我随风飘扬的长发。夜越来越深了,是凌晨时分了,我们却毫无睡意。这时忽然来了一个瘦弱的孩子,胸前斜挎的吉他比他还要高。他手里拿着一个用小学生的练习本写就的歌本,老练的请求我们点歌。他眼睛很大,但却像少了少年的那种天真之气。我问他几岁了。他说六岁。再问他点一支歌多少钱。他用生意人惯用的口气告诉我,一支四元,但如果点三支的话,只收十元钱。我说,那就点三支。第一首歌是《三个老婆》,歌词是什么“三个老婆不嫌多”“老婆多了有人疼”之类,甚至形象地给三个老婆所司其职做了分工,什么做饭的、捏脚的、陪睡觉的。

If you encounter a old Dan sat in a chair on the babbling to sing endlessly, I will be tired of punt the same left.If not steal the other home of the beans cooked in the boat to eat, to steal a ray of moonlight to be a hair band, beaming my long hair flying in the wind.Night is getting deeper and deeper, it is early morning, and we have no sleep.Suddenly came a thin child, chest Messenger of the guitar than he even higher.His hand holding a practice with a primary school students to write the song, sophisticated request us to sing.His eyes were great, but he was as naive as a teenager.I asked him how old he was.He said six years old.Ask him how much money a song.He used the usual tone of businessmen told me that a four yuan, but if the point of three, then only ten dollars.I said, then point three.The first song is the "three wives", the lyrics are "three wives are not too many", "his wife was more pain" and the like, and even vividly to the three wives of their duties to do the division of labor, what cooking, Pinching the foot, to accompany sleep.

他这一唱,大家的心一下子沉下来了。在这个鲁镇少年身上,我看不到少年闰土身上的天真、朝气和童趣,反而感觉相遇的是成年的闰土,那个被沉重生活压迫得几近麻木的闰土。没等他唱另外两首歌,我们便付了他十元钱,打发他走了。他挎着吉他离去的背影有些摇晃,倒像那吉他是一头蛮力十足的怪兽,死死地拖着他走,在黑夜里把这卖唱的少年的瘦小身形拖得支离破碎。

His singing, everyone's heart suddenly sank. In the town of Lu youth, I do not see the juvenile Runtu naive, energetic and playful, but feel the adult Runtu is met, that was a heavy living pressure almost numb the Runtu. Before he could sing the other two songs, we paid him ten dollars and sent him away. He left the guitar leaving the back of some shaking, like the guitar is a brute force of the monster, dragging him tightly, in the night to sing the boy's thin stature dragged fragmented.

次日我起得很迟,把早饭和午饭放在一块吃了。天色仍然寡白寡白的,三两朋友聚集在一起,都说不想到安排好的景点去参观,我说那不如到绍兴的老街走一走。以我的经验,看一卷历史书,也许不如在一个有历史感的老街上走上一程更能领会历史的含义。因为老建筑会透出一股清秋般的苍凉,你能在其上看到岁月抚过的痕迹,触摸到历史心音的脉搏。

The next day I got up late and put breakfast and lunch together. The sky is still few and white, and 32 friends gathered together, said do not want to arrange good spots to visit, I said it would be better to walk to the streets of Shaoxing. In my experience, to see a roll of history books, perhaps not as good as in a historic sense of the street on a journey to better understand the meaning of history. Because the old building will reveal a Qingqiu-like bleak, you can see on the traces of the years to touch, touch the pulse of the history of heart sounds.

沿着绍兴广场的护城河北走,没有多远,老街就出现了。我的眼睛蓦然一亮,感觉它仿佛扭着身子活跃地动了几下。在被高楼簇拥着的宽敞的柏油马路上行走,常常觉得自己走在一具巨大的僵尸上,紧张、空虚、不知所措。而在狭窄的老街上闲走,我会无限的放松和陶醉。这种时刻,你觉得那街分明像河流一样,潺潺地流动着,等着你的脚踏出阵阵水花。街只有两米左右的宽度,两侧是层层叠叠的老房子。门楼各具特色,有的高而窄,有的矮而阔。房子多数是两层的小楼,也有三层的,极少。

Shaoxing Plaza, along the moat to go north, not how far the streets there. My eyes suddenly light up, feeling it as if twisting the body to move a few active. In the tall buildings surrounded by the spacious asphalt walking on the road, often feel like walking in a huge zombie, nervous, empty, at a loss. In the narrow streets of leisure, I will be unlimited relaxation and intoxicated. At this moment, you feel that the streets as clear as the river, the gurgling flow, waiting for your foot out of bursts of water spray. Street is only about two meters wide, on both sides of the old layers of the house. Gatehouse with their own characteristics, and some high and narrow, and some short and wide. Most of the two-story house is a small building, there are three, very little.

它们的色彩以栗色和苍灰为基调,屋顶的瓦基本是深灰的,灰得年头久了,就泛黑了。倒与天色极为协调,仿佛它们就是天的底座。你不要小觑了这老街,看着它不长,走起来就长了,长得仿佛没有尽头。而且也不是笔直的,略略地弯着,不是老人的那种透出暮气的驼背,而是一个少女笑得不能自持时妖娆的弯腰,风情万种。街上很少有行人,石板路上干干净净的,明净、妥帖。

Their color to chestnut and Cang gray as the keynote, the roof of the tile is basically dark gray, gray too old for a long time, it is black. Down with the weather is extremely coordinated, as if they are days of the base. You do not underestimate this street, watching it is not long, walk up to long, looks as if there is no end. But also not straight, slightly bent, not the kind of old man revealed the hunchback of the dusk, but a girl can not be self-sustaining laugh when the bend of the enchanting, customs million. Very few pedestrians on the street, stone on the road clean, bright and clean, appropriateness.

老屋比比皆是,它们保持房屋原来的状态,格局是老格局,窗户也是老窗户。到这样的屋子走一下,你会嗅到一股散发着隐隐腥气的潮味,仿佛这房子是放置已久的鱼,因离河太久而伤感得落泪,而那气息或许就从它的眼泪而来。如果不是有现代的人闪现在房子里,我会误以为回到了百年前的鲁镇,那里有单四嫂子在空虚寂静的夜晚呼唤宝儿的哭声,有华老栓买来的人血馒头被火焰舔舐过所发出的奇怪的香味,有在祝福声中被主人呵斥凄凉地放下烛台的祥林嫂。这是鲁镇,是鲁迅笔下那个永远的鲁镇。那屋檐上的荒草,那窗棂上弥漫的蒙昧天光,那院子中的桂花树,那天井中的杂物,似乎都透着一样气息,让人伤感和惆怅,又让人有某种辛酸后的喜悦。

Old houses abound, they maintain the original state of the house, the pattern is the old pattern, the windows are old windows. To such a house to go, you will smell a smell of faint smell of fish smell, as if the house is a long-standing fish, because the river is too long and sad tears, and that atmosphere perhaps from its Tears come. If not a modern man flashed in the house, I would mistakenly thought back to a hundred years ago, the town of Lu, where a single four sister-in-law in the empty night of the call BoA crying, Hua Lao bolt bought blood buns Was licked by the flame issued by the strange smell, there are blessings in the sound of the master slander desolate to put down the candlestick Xianglinsao. This is Lu Zhen, Lu Xun is the eternal Lu town. That roof on the grass, the window lattice diffuse ignorant sky, that yard in the sweet - scented osmanthus trees, the courtyard of the debris, it seems that the same trace of the atmosphere, people sad and melancholy, and people have some kind of bitterness joy.

在那条老街里,我印象最深的是一个着白衣的盲人。他用一根细而长的竹竿探着走路,走得不急不躁,有板有眼。看来他对这老街熟稔之极,老街也许是他的眼睛仅能看到的一道光。走完老街在一家茶楼坐下时,透过拉起的窗户,我望见护城河上的拱形石桥。那桥是灰色的,上面匍匐着一些绿色藤萝,有棵高高的柳树越过石桥,仿佛一个淘气的少年,赤脚站在水里,笑嘻嘻地看着流水。把目光放远一些,再远一些,便可望见老街上的房屋,看见灰瓦和飞檐,像漂浮在鲁镇上空的凝重的浮云,让我失陷于回忆和思索。

In that street, I was most impressed by a white blind. He used a thin and long bamboo stalking to walk, go in no hurry not impatient, a plate with eyes. It seems that he is very familiar with this street, street may be his eyes can only see a light. Walking down the street in a restaurant to sit down, through the pull up the window, I saw the arch on the moat stone bridge. That bridge is gray, the above creeping with some green vines, tall willow tree over the stone bridge, as if a naughty boy, barefoot standing in the water, grinning watching the water. Look far away, and then some distance, we can see the houses on the street, see the gray tiles and cornices, like the floating in the town over the dignified clouds, so I lost in memory and thinking.

我总想鲁迅在骨子里其实是一个浪漫主义者。是我们把他定位在“民族魂”这个高度后,才更多地注意了他作品的现实和批判的精神,而忽略了任何一个伟大的作家内心深处都具有的浪漫主义情怀。从他的故居直至老街,我感受到的是栩栩如生的鲁镇,它闲适、恬静、慵懒、舒缓,这是能让人的想像力急遽飞翔的地方。孔乙己是现实的,但也是浪漫的,只不过那是被苦难压榨出的辛酸的浪漫:他赊账喝酒,他偷了书被人打断腿时为自己的辩解,都体现了鲁迅在其身上倾注的浪漫主义的热情。

I always want to Lu Xun in the bones is actually a romanticist. We put him in the "national soul" of this ss, only to pay more attention to his works of the reality and critical spirit, and ignore any great writer has a deep heart romantic feelings. From his former home to the Old Street, I feel is the lifelike Luzhen, it is quiet, quiet, lazy, soothing, this is to make people's imagination flying place. Kong Yiji is a realistic, but also romantic, but it is hardships squeezed out of the bitterness of the romantic: his credit to drink, he stole the book was broken legs for their own excuse, are reflected in the body of Lu Xun Devoted to the passion of romanticism.

还有那个让人过目不忘的阿Q,他对革命的无知的游戏态度,他由调戏小尼姑而生发出的对爱情的向往,他自甘其辱的精神上的自我安慰,直至他为自己生命的终结而努力画上的那个圆圈时,都仿佛是神秘的、可爱的,让人憎恨而又同情。而在《故事新编》中鲁迅的浪漫主义情怀体现得淋漓尽致,挥洒自如。《奔月》里吃腻了乌鸦炸酱面的嫦娥,《出关》里骑着青牛的老子,还有《铸剑》里在滚烫的大金鼎里那颗如泣如诉的报仇的人头,不都是些有光彩、有魅力、经得起时间检验的浪漫主义人物么!

There is that people never forget the Ah Q, his ignorance of the revolutionary attitude of the game, he was sent by the naughty little nun and sent to the love of the yearning, he desolate the spirit of self-comfort, until he was The end of his life and try to draw on that circle, are as if the mysterious, lovely, people hate and sympathy. Lu Xun \ 's Romanticism embodied in the New Stories. "Run to the moon," tired of the crow eat noodles Chang'e, "exit" in the Qingniu I ride, and "sword" in the hot big gold tripod sinking Ruqirusu revenge of the head , Are not all those glamorous, attractive, stand the test of time Romantic characters!

绍兴似乎总是陰气沉沉的,我心目中的鲁镇因了这特定的天色而一直伫立在眼前。它的白天和黑夜仿佛是没有界限的,白昼有暗夜的气象,而黑夜又有白昼隐约的影子,一如鲁迅作品带给我的气息。当我喝了一杯碧绿的茶,再望护城河的时候,望见了一条乌篷船正从远处荡来。那船黑黑的,就像越出水面的一条青鱼。到得近处,那桨搅起一阵一阵的乌黑的淤泥上来,使绿水有了一道道黑色的印痕,就像人的伤疤。待我把目光再转到石桥上时,竟然又看见了先前在老街里遇见的那个盲人,他怀抱着竹竿,坐在石桥上。但又不是沉静地坐着,他不时地转身,用竹竿去抚弄柳树,于是就有一些微黄的柳叶天女散花般地被打落,落在水里,向下游荡来,渐渐地接近我们所坐的茶楼。我多想在它们经过的一瞬泼一杯清茶在它们身上,偏又怕同行者笑我痴狂,而且我也不敢肯定,它们确乎能够领受茶的芬芳,于是就只是静静地坐着看着它们一摇一摆地走远。

Shaoxing seems always chi, I think the town of Lu because of this particular weather and has been standing in front. Its day and night as if there is no limit, the day the night weather, and the night there are faint shadow of the day, as Lu Xun works to bring me the breath. When I drank a cup of green tea, and then look at the moat, I saw a Ukrainian ship is swinging from a distance. The ship was black, like a fish out of the water. To get near, the paddle stirred up a burst of black mud up, so that the green water has a black imprint, like a human scar. When I look to the stone bridge, they saw the old street in the previous met the blind man, he embraced the bamboo pole, sitting on the stone bridge. But not sitting quietly, he turned from time to time, with the bamboo pole to touch the willow, so there are some yellowish willow days like a woman was scattered to fall, falling in the water, wandering down, gradually Close to the restaurant we sat. I would like to pass a cup of tea in their blink of an eye on them, biased fear of my colleagues laugh at me crazy, and I'm not sure, they are indeed able to receive the fragrance of tea, so just sit and watch them quietly A shake to go far.

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