travel in Shaoxing :the hometown of China's greatest author Lu Xun



Luzhen's night and day


Chi Zijian


Celebrity 's former residence, the most difficult thing is to number the threshold. It should carry visitors or light or heavy walking, this footprint, of course, not to touch the leaves were gentle, more than not diffuse over the fresh wind. Moreover, this old threshold is not ushered in its old master, it is probably to hear the feelings of visitors and the camera's shutter beating the "click" sound. Slightly better, but also is nothing more than the sentimental feelings with the issue of several sighs. I think this threshold in the silence of the night, may be unwittingly infected with dust on the feet of strangers feel sorry, it may be clutching his face was trampled scarred, facing the roof tile or patio The old tree weeps.


I was crossing the threshold of the former residence of Lu Xun, I can not step on it, for fear that the same as the history of the scrolls will be trampled the threshold. The sky is already gloomy, coupled with a lot of people noisy, has eliminated my interest in this old house. Just remember it is great, the door is a heavy then heavy, and all the rooms are furnished with old furniture and utensils, they are like the old people through the vicissitudes of the eyes, quiet and slightly coldly looking at us. There was no large window in the room, and the chestnut windows were all wooden. Wood is very small pieces, as if the cross on the window of a pair of scissors, the sun into the room to cut out of thin air and bleak, it is almost hard to see a sunny room. Then "fast brother" hang around in such a large courtyard, to live in such an eternal house forever, his attention to the outside world will be more urgent it. The illusion of silence and faintness is as active as the wandering fish in the river.


This is Shaoxing, and Shaoxing in my mind is Lu Zhen. After hearing a disappointing "community drama", I and a few friends to find a food stalls, is midnight. No stars, no moon, the food stalls are on the high tide. That gear is a long alley from north to south, some skew, but it is skewed, it shows a casual, secular and romantic atmosphere.


Alley is in the wet, this is certainly not the rain of moisture, but stall vegetables spilled water. Stalls attached to one, all-plastic roof, each shed about four or five round tables, each table can accommodate seven or eight individuals. Pre-coal red red, the voice of cooking and the stall to attract the voice of the guests, people feel warm and warm. We want a fried tofu, salted egg yolk fried pumpkin wire, stir-fried yellow snail, pepper eel wire, salt water boiled anise beans and other dishes, called a pot of wine. Wine Needless to say, must be Kong Yiji and Ah Q have been drinking rice wine. Wine has been warm, did not put the city to drink in the fashion law to increase the plum, ginger, rock sugar and other condiments, so pure mellow. We have also compared the elegant wine chat, and later drink was emotional flying, a few people on the line to make wine, laugh and cried, so happy.


At this moment, the shadow of my heart Luzhen comes out a flash to show, I smell the smell of an old Chinese life. I seem to see Kong Yiji wearing a gown standing drinking, he with a pointed finger on the counter to discharge a text of the coins; I also saw Lvwei Fu in the restaurant about two velvet flowers when the story of wistful look. I even think that if not far from the moat parked under a boat, we boarded the board, in the night in the rowing row, will be able to see the real social drama, drink under the stage to sell milk.


If you encounter a old Dan sat in a chair on the babbling to sing endlessly, I will be tired of punt the same left.If not steal the other home of the beans cooked in the boat to eat, to steal a ray of moonlight to be a hair band, beaming my long hair flying in the wind.Night is getting deeper and deeper, it is early morning, and we have no sleep.Suddenly came a thin child, chest Messenger of the guitar than he even higher.His hand holding a practice with a primary school students to write the song, sophisticated request us to sing.His eyes were great, but he was as naive as a teenager.I asked him how old he was.He said six years old.Ask him how much money a song.He used the usual tone of businessmen told me that a four yuan, but if the point of three, then only ten dollars.I said, then point three.The first song is the "three wives", the lyrics are "three wives are not too many", "his wife was more pain" and the like, and even vividly to the three wives of their duties to do the division of labor, what cooking, Pinching the foot, to accompany sleep.


His singing, everyone's heart suddenly sank. In the town of Lu youth, I do not see the juvenile Runtu naive, energetic and playful, but feel the adult Runtu is met, that was a heavy living pressure almost numb the Runtu. Before he could sing the other two songs, we paid him ten dollars and sent him away. He left the guitar leaving the back of some shaking, like the guitar is a brute force of the monster, dragging him tightly, in the night to sing the boy's thin stature dragged fragmented.


The next day I got up late and put breakfast and lunch together. The sky is still few and white, and 32 friends gathered together, said do not want to arrange good spots to visit, I said it would be better to walk to the streets of Shaoxing. In my experience, to see a roll of history books, perhaps not as good as in a historic sense of the street on a journey to better understand the meaning of history. Because the old building will reveal a Qingqiu-like bleak, you can see on the traces of the years to touch, touch the pulse of the history of heart sounds.


Shaoxing Plaza, along the moat to go north, not how far the streets there. My eyes suddenly light up, feeling it as if twisting the body to move a few active. In the tall buildings surrounded by the spacious asphalt walking on the road, often feel like walking in a huge zombie, nervous, empty, at a loss. In the narrow streets of leisure, I will be unlimited relaxation and intoxicated. At this moment, you feel that the streets as clear as the river, the gurgling flow, waiting for your foot out of bursts of water spray. Street is only about two meters wide, on both sides of the old layers of the house. Gatehouse with their own characteristics, and some high and narrow, and some short and wide. Most of the two-story house is a small building, there are three, very little.


Their color to chestnut and Cang gray as the keynote, the roof of the tile is basically dark gray, gray too old for a long time, it is black. Down with the weather is extremely coordinated, as if they are days of the base. You do not underestimate this street, watching it is not long, walk up to long, looks as if there is no end. But also not straight, slightly bent, not the kind of old man revealed the hunchback of the dusk, but a girl can not be self-sustaining laugh when the bend of the enchanting, customs million. Very few pedestrians on the street, stone on the road clean, bright and clean, appropriateness.


Old houses abound, they maintain the original state of the house, the pattern is the old pattern, the windows are old windows. To such a house to go, you will smell a smell of faint smell of fish smell, as if the house is a long-standing fish, because the river is too long and sad tears, and that atmosphere perhaps from its Tears come. If not a modern man flashed in the house, I would mistakenly thought back to a hundred years ago, the town of Lu, where a single four sister-in-law in the empty night of the call BoA crying, Hua Lao bolt bought blood buns Was licked by the flame issued by the strange smell, there are blessings in the sound of the master slander desolate to put down the candlestick Xianglinsao. This is Lu Zhen, Lu Xun is the eternal Lu town. That roof on the grass, the window lattice diffuse ignorant sky, that yard in the sweet - scented osmanthus trees, the courtyard of the debris, it seems that the same trace of the atmosphere, people sad and melancholy, and people have some kind of bitterness joy.


In that street, I was most impressed by a white blind. He used a thin and long bamboo stalking to walk, go in no hurry not impatient, a plate with eyes. It seems that he is very familiar with this street, street may be his eyes can only see a light. Walking down the street in a restaurant to sit down, through the pull up the window, I saw the arch on the moat stone bridge. That bridge is gray, the above creeping with some green vines, tall willow tree over the stone bridge, as if a naughty boy, barefoot standing in the water, grinning watching the water. Look far away, and then some distance, we can see the houses on the street, see the gray tiles and cornices, like the floating in the town over the dignified clouds, so I lost in memory and thinking.


I always want to Lu Xun in the bones is actually a romanticist. We put him in the "national soul" of this ss, only to pay more attention to his works of the reality and critical spirit, and ignore any great writer has a deep heart romantic feelings. From his former home to the Old Street, I feel is the lifelike Luzhen, it is quiet, quiet, lazy, soothing, this is to make people's imagination flying place. Kong Yiji is a realistic, but also romantic, but it is hardships squeezed out of the bitterness of the romantic: his credit to drink, he stole the book was broken legs for their own excuse, are reflected in the body of Lu Xun Devoted to the passion of romanticism.


There is that people never forget the Ah Q, his ignorance of the revolutionary attitude of the game, he was sent by the naughty little nun and sent to the love of the yearning, he desolate the spirit of self-comfort, until he was The end of his life and try to draw on that circle, are as if the mysterious, lovely, people hate and sympathy. Lu Xun \ 's Romanticism embodied in the New Stories. "Run to the moon," tired of the crow eat noodles Chang'e, "exit" in the Qingniu I ride, and "sword" in the hot big gold tripod sinking Ruqirusu revenge of the head , Are not all those glamorous, attractive, stand the test of time Romantic characters!


Shaoxing seems always chi, I think the town of Lu because of this particular weather and has been standing in front. Its day and night as if there is no limit, the day the night weather, and the night there are faint shadow of the day, as Lu Xun works to bring me the breath. When I drank a cup of green tea, and then look at the moat, I saw a Ukrainian ship is swinging from a distance. The ship was black, like a fish out of the water. To get near, the paddle stirred up a burst of black mud up, so that the green water has a black imprint, like a human scar. When I look to the stone bridge, they saw the old street in the previous met the blind man, he embraced the bamboo pole, sitting on the stone bridge. But not sitting quietly, he turned from time to time, with the bamboo pole to touch the willow, so there are some yellowish willow days like a woman was scattered to fall, falling in the water, wandering down, gradually Close to the restaurant we sat. I would like to pass a cup of tea in their blink of an eye on them, biased fear of my colleagues laugh at me crazy, and I'm not sure, they are indeed able to receive the fragrance of tea, so just sit and watch them quietly A shake to go far.




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